A Legacy of Art and Haute Couture Jewellery
Surreal Bijoux was founded in 1983 in Paris by artist and designer BillyBoy* and his partner, Jean Pierre Lestrade, also known as Lala. Their first atelier was in the kitchen of their own apartment, where they began crafting their unique, avant-garde jewellery by hand. As their success grew, they quickly opened a workroom and showroom at 6 rue de la Paix, which operated from 1984 to 1989. They later established the Mdvanii Boutique Gallery on rue du Cherche-Midi, which they maintained until 1991.
BillyBoy* Surreal Bijoux jewellery was renowned for its bold, surrealist designs, drawing inspiration from Pop Culture—particularly the vibrant aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s—while incorporating elements of neo-baroque and haute couture. Each piece was meticulously handcrafted, initially using resin and later incorporating metal. The Surreal Bijoux creations featured strikingly exaggerated shapes, vivid colours, and an eclectic mix of materials, seamlessly blending vintage beads, pearls, and chains with shimmering Swarovski rhinestones.
The Surreal Bijoux collection was officially launched in Paris at Jansen on rue Royale with a spectacular exhibition of exactly 1,000 hand-crafted pieces. The opening night, when BillyBoy* & Lala created an installation piece of a Go-Go boy and girl on pedestals dancing the Frug and Le Jerk to the Ventures Telestar and Nancy Sinatra’s iconic “These Boots were Made for Walking” Pop Art-sized polaroids of the jewels in front of a mammoth picture of BillyBoy*. A film was made on Super 8 in the Vogue Studios. The jewellery was then sold at prestigious locations such as Le Printemps and Utility Bibi, a fashionable boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Internationally, Surreal Bijoux was available at high-end retailers, including Henry Bendel, Bloomingdale’s, I. Magnin, and Lou Lattimore in Texas. In Japan, Surreal Bijoux was represented by So International until 1989, after which Sumiko Watanabe took over its distribution.
Beyond Surreal Bijoux collections, BillyBoy* also designed jewellery for some of the most renowned fashion houses, collaborating with designers such as Emmanuel Ungaro, Thierry Mugler, Bernard Perris, Francesco Smalto, and Hanae Mori. His work was widely recognised for its originality and artistry, cementing Surreal Bijoux’s status in haute couture jewellery.
In 1993, BillyBoy* and Lala decides to leave Paris, relocating to Trouville-sur-Mer in Calvados, Normandy, where they remained until 1997 before moving to Switzerland. Although the Surreal Production company was officially on hiatus, the artists continued to create jewellery in a more private and exclusive manner, focusing on one-of-a-kind pieces for art jewellery exhibitions, museums and collectors.
Jewellery from Surreal Bijoux, as well as earlier pieces created by BillyBoy* during his New York Surreal Couture period (1975–1982), are now part of prestigious private collections and major museum holdings. Institutions such as the Fashion Institute of Technology, the Louvre, the Kyoto Museum, and the Museo de la Moda in Santiago, Chile, have included his work in their collections, solidifying his influence in the worlds of fashion and jewellery design.
Early BillyBoy* brooch, in Plastiroc, with Swarovski rhinestones, facetted glass stone and chain inserts. Signed in the back Billy Boy with a needle, 1983.
Early Surreal Bijoux shown at the British Ambassy in Moscow. BillyBoy* is visiting Russian couturier Zeitsev in his ateliers, trying on one of his leather jackets. Polaroïds by Lala, 1988.
Early Folded Heart brooch in hand-painted Plastiroc, with Swarovski rhinestones. Hand-signed BillyBoy with a needle.Each brooch was entirely hand-made and unique. 1984. Private collection USA.
Bat Face earrings in faux-bois hand-painted resin with resin inserts.Surreal Bijoux for Thierry Mugler 1985.
Porteur de Fruits, faux-bois hand-painted resin brooch, BillyBoy* for Thierry Mugler. 1985. Hand-signed, Surreal Bijoux gold oval tag. One of a kind box. Collection Museo de la Modo, Santiago de Chile.
Above an Aztec necklace in hand-painted resin and gilt chain is styled with an Egyptian fashion ensemble in the Japanese press. It is quite humorous knowing that Surreal Bijoux produced various Antique Egyptian-inspired motifs, such as this Tête à Tut necklace, worn by Paige Powell,Andy Warhol’s private assistant and friend of BillyBoy*. The matching Tut earrings are worn by the girl above…
Nosferatu earrings in painted resin with glass beads. Made for Emmanuel Ungaro Haute Couture, 1985.
Absolut de BillyBoy*, brooch in gilt metal with engraved glass pâte de verre and glas. 1987. Made for Carillon LTD the makers of Absolut Vodka. It came with a matching silk scarf.
Joan of Arc necklace in silvered metal with original Surreal Bijoux pâte de verre (moulded glass). Engraved BillyBoy* ©85 *Surreal Bijoux Made in France. The Joan of Arc collection included many variations of shapes which allowed many combinations and a luxurious array of colours.
Pigeon de Paris, hand-painted resin with Swarovski rhinestones and pearls and cabochons, dangling pearl. Signed BillyBoy*. Private collection, USA.
Gambettes, knit cuff with gilt metal dangling stockings, a BillyBoy* hommage to Schiaparelli, 1987. The “goon” (BillyBoy*’s logo) in wood is one of the two handles of the Mdvanii Boutique- Gallery in Paris, on rue du Cherche-Midi. It existed for only two years.
Most recent Publications and shows:
Création Jurassienne de Bijoux – Infolio, 243 pages, 2023 by Isabelle Lecomte. With Exhibition at the Musée Jurassien d’Art et d’Histoire in Porrentruy. https://www.mjah.ch/e/musee
Service Magazine, a new fashion and art magazine launched in January 2024, includes a 34-page article on BillyBoy* & Lala (see article).
“Mdvaniiismes” BillyBoy* & Lala at the POPA, (Porrentruy Museum of Optic Art, Jura Switzerland) Exhibition in May-June 2024 (see article).
“Bijoux Solaires” group exhibition – suns.works gallery, Zürich December 1-30,2024.info@suns.works +41 76 388 87 03
Horus, important “pectoral” necklace in resin, facetted glass stone and cabochon, rhinestones, glass pearl inserts, fly motif gilt metal chain, one of a kind. A 1984-2024 Mdvaniiism by BillyBoy* & Lala.